At Last

Finally, I have news for you. Has the suspense been killing you!? :) Well, it's been even worse on me. First I had to make a decision, with backups; then I had to find reasonably priced housing. Due to the weather dropping, I've had to stay in motels for nearly 2 weeks, which has really killed the billfold. Well, everything came together today - in very fine form.

Choice Number 2 was Tellico Plains, TN. I really like that little town. In fact, just today, I found some reasonably-priced housing up the mountain in the next town. I held that in reserve as a backup to what I was working on. Tellico Plains came in at Number 2 really because of its disadvantages: little available housing, little or no employment (though a good job is coming open in the future), and no church possibility within an hour's drive. I felt I needed one or two of those possibilities for it to make any sense moving there.

Choice Number 1 is (a little drum roll here) Dahlonega, Georgia! I wrote about this only a couple of blogs ago (you can back up and review that). The Square is the coolest I've encountered, even though I realize it is really for the tourists and not the locals. The terrain, foothills to the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is hilly and woodsy. Very beautiful. I almost had to give up finding reasonably-priced housing until today. I have rented a small 2-bedroom apartment (walkout basement) about 5 miles north of town. I only have to pay electricity (electric heat) in addition to the rent. No deposit, no last month, even reduced first month. As part of the rent, I get cable TV, a washer and dryer, water, septic and trash pickup. It's really quite a steal. I love being out in the country. My nearest off-the-property neighbor is a vineyard and winery. A couple live next door to me and a single, older man above me. I couldn't turn down all of this for a low rent. I got the apartment without a lease (I promised to stay for a minimum of 6 months). Compared with everything I looked at, I know I did very well. I'm a pleased pup tonight.

I spent the afternoon setting up accounts (electric and mail delivery). I've checked out the library, but can't get a card for at least a month with local ID. The library is okay (1950s?); it'll have to due. I'll try to get some pictures taken when I've gotten settled in. Must now go buy sheets and some cleaning supplies. The start of a new life. I'm excited.

Kicking Around North Georgia

I've been spending time in North Georgia, having looked forward to this part of the country for sometime (I've otherwise only known Savannah). This is gorgeous country, rolling hills and mountains primarily, all foothills to the Blue Ridge Mountains.

I was in and out of Clayton for about 4 days. This old town has had mushroom growth recently due to a Harrah's casino up the road in North Carolina. I'm told that once that casino went in, the traffic coming from Atlanta and Greenville, SC, increased phenomenally, so that now all the franchise businesses are located along the highway (with the real town in about 2 blocks). Clayton has a lovely new books store which I visited a couple of times.

In 1966, students in Rabun County began raising money for their schooling. They did this by interviewing oldtimers and writing up their interviews. The result of these writings is now the famous set of Foxfire books. Foxfire is now a rather famous museum and preserver of Appalachian folk arts. The weekend I was in Clayton was the date for the Foxfire Fall Festival at the Community Center and grounds. How lucky could I be? There were hands-on demonstrations of the classic arts of candlemaking and weaving, and the not-so-classic arts of wrestling a greased pig and climbing a greased pole. Needless to say, these last were for the children. Other exhibits were musical instrument making, carving and lots of banjo music. I was pleased to be able to attend, though disappointed that most of the exhibits were contemporary vendors of general items.
I made appointments to see several rental units that were available, but none of them appealed to me. I even went to church, where both parking and seating were at a premium -- I haven't had that experience in years. In the end, I decided that Clayton was just too busy for me to be really comfortable. So it was back on the road again.

Yesterday, Sunday, I started traveling across the top of Georgia. This area is far more mountainous than I had realized. I traveled along the Hiawassee River and town of that name: a beautiful area with no focus.

I then dipped down into Dahlonega, the site of America's first major gold rush. The town name is a corruption of a Cherokee word meaning golden. The gold rush here occurred just before the more famous California Gold Rush. Some official, trying to keep the miners from fleeing to California, spoke the line now famous: There's gold in them thar hills. This is quite a town, with the most active town square I've seen to date. At the center of the square is the old court house, now a gold museum; quaint shops surround the square, mostly restaurants. You can take a horse-drawn carriage ride or visit a wine tasting room (there are quite a few wineries in N. Georgia). Contiguous to the square is North Georgia College and State University (2 schools rolled into one: the former being the state's military college). Very hilly country with lush vegetation; probably too touristy for my likes, though the town has possibilities. It even needs a bookstore. Dare I? Probably not. I got back to the Square this morning about 10:00. Almost nothing was open. 

So I proceeded on to Ellijay/East Ellijay, another town built around a square and finally have landed in Murphy, North Carolina. This is a bigger town than I expected, without a square. Lot of 

Cherokee history here.

Murphy is town number LAST on my travels. When I wake up tomorrow (Tuesday), my trip will be over. What do I do then? I have about 16 hours to figure this out. Stay tuned.

Georgia on my Mind

Last Thursday, I drove down to Athens, Georgia, home of the University but, for me, more importantly, home of Jackson Street Books. My friend Tony operates this store. Tony and I met in 1993 at a booksellers' training course and have had a little email contact over the years. I wanted to renew our acquaintance and see his store. He operates a wonderful used book store, 50,000 volumes nestled on high shelves, spread throughout the building. I fear I talked his head off for two hours, but we had a good time together. Please visit Tony whenever you are in Athens.

 Tony told me that if he could live anywhere in the state he could, he would chose Lake Rabun and that I should go see it. The Lake is just above Clarkesville, so back I went to the area I had just left. Tony has good taste, but beer budgets won't quite make it here. The Lake is densely surrounded by expensive homes. It very much reminded me of a summer community on the coast of Maine. There was a Forest Service campground there, so I was able to stay overnight. There are two other similar lakes in the region. The Lake Rabun Hotel is a national treasure with very high rankings. I wandered in, but a wedding luncheon was just ending, so it was a bit crazy. Pictured here is one of maybe two other commercial operations on this part of the lake and is for sale 

for the intrepid entrepenuer.

3 States, 1 Day

I continued traveling in Tennessee as far east as Erwin (for you map followers). This is the mountainous part of the state and the scenery is beautiful. The towns, however, are older, industrial towns, often a bit ragged around the edges. I decided I had probably seen what I wanted to see in Tennessee, so I headed south to North Carolina. The scenery in the western mountainous part of the state even beats Tennessee. I drove onto the Blue Ridge Parkway at Asheville. This is a 45-mph road running from Virginia to North Carolina. You travel above towns and places, attain great heights (6000 feet) and have incredible views. Here is a picture taken at about 3800 feet. At about 4000 feet, I was in the clouds (so to speak). Actually, I was fogged in and the drive became very dangerous: I couldn't see but a couple of feet around me; I was trying to contend with other cars and bicyclists; and it was very cold. So, I decided to turn back and go down to a blue highway going west across this portion of the state. This was windy, mountainous driving, but gorgeous. A lot of people have found the beauty of this region, as the population is pretty dense. Big-time money is here, evidenced even by an office/gallery of Sotheby's along the road. I ended in Highlands, an artsy community dripping in dollars. I got out of there pretty quickly.

My third state that day was Georgia. I arrived in the old town of Clarkesville, which has a rectangular town square of old shops. I must go back there someday. Instead, I headed to the library to check my email. Coming out, I discovered I was only a block from the Episcopal Church whose last priest had been Barbara Bradford Taylor, so I had to go see it. I've written about Barbara before and how much I have appreciated her writings. The church is so New England Unitarian, that I can't believe it could have been built for an Episcopal church. It has a very high center pulpit, boxed pews, and a Henry Erban (New York City mid-1800s) one-manual pipe organ in the rear gallery. I'd like to go there someday to see how worship works in such a space. I then found a lovely private RV camp for the night. I think I'd seen a lot that day.

Is That All There Is?

I made it to the Great Smoky National Park on Sunday/Monday. The roads I chose to get there were not as interesting as most I've taken. I went in at Townsend, TN. I tried to get a camping spot outside the Park, but costs for sleeping in my truck (and a shower) ran $27 to $37. Heck, No! I went into the Park and got a primitive spot (no shower) for $10. Unfortunately, it was another day of much rain. I was miserable and got out of there by 9 the next morning.
The Park is very lovely. There seem to be only 2 entrances with a second loop road. The Park is much bigger than what you can see from the road. There are a lot of hiking trails that go into the interior - but not in the rain. One thing I really liked were seeing the entrances to the Quiet Trails. These are likely the less strenuous. I would like to go back and try some of these, as well as make the 11-mile Cades Cove loop (an old historic community in the Park, no longer a community; one woman I met said she thought it was the most beautiful spot in the country!). The Park has no entrance fee. I thought all National Parks charged.
Given the weather, I didn't want to do anything. Also, I think I'm on scenery overload. I've always hated that Peggy Lee song (the title of this blog) because one, it's an ugly song, and two, it is so negative. Yet, I kind of felt that way with the Park. I've been seeing this same scenery for weeks. Yet, I'm glad the Park has been preserved, as who knows what could become of such property.
I left by the second entrance and had to go down the main street of Gatlinburg. There was no way to avoid it. What a tacky town! Sort of a Coney Island atmosphere. The main street is 4 lanes; there is no parking in the downtown. Instead, you are invited to park in secondary parking lots for from $5 to $8. One smart entrepenuer opened a restaurant with a free parking lot. Guess where I and many others ate? I went through midmorning on a Tuesday, so traffic wasn't bad.
When I got to the quiet side of the Park, driving through Cosby, TN, I spotted a sign telling me of a book sale. Well, of course, I turned back and went in. What a place! Books everywhere, good books, 2 for 1 outside the store. I could have stayed there for hours, though there are so many books it's impossible to see them all. I did buy three, two of which I've been looking for and couldn't find. I'd love to go back. A portion of their inventory can be found on Amazon.com, as well as there own website: www.booksatourplace.com.
I made it to a well-off-the-beaten-track campsite quite some miles beyond Newport, TN. I was the only one there. No showers, but it only cost me $3.50. However, more rain! When I left, I dipped into the mountains of Western North Carolina. Even more breathtaking than Tennessee. NC is a high-cost-of-living state, so it's not on my radar.
I went on to Erwin Tuesday (today), found a beautiful campsite, but I froze as soon as I got out of the car. All trees, no sun, everything soaking wet. I left and checked into a motel. I had to. I've been sick with fevers and pain from all this rain camping. I got to soak in a hot bathtub, sleep in a real bed (my shoulders and hips are starting to hurt from the hard surface on which my futon rests. I may investigate an air mattress, if I can get a smaller on to fit into my space).
I don't think I can go on much longer in this kind of weather. I'm getting on an Interstate tomorrow and heading back into North Carolina to take the western portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway, then into Northern Georgia. Push is coming to shove and I need to make a decision about the winter. My favorite spot so far is Tellico Plains, TN. However, there's almost no housing available there, not even a motel to stay in temporarily, no employment (though I do have a lead on a position which will open in the near future). There are no mainline churches within 30 minutes to an hour. Don't know what I'm going to do.
I apologize I have no pictures for this blog. Between my health and all the rain, I really couldn't take any. They would only have been of more trees, anyway.
For those who know Bill F., it's his birthday tomorrow. Surprise him with a greeting.

Not Yet Gentrified

I have just finished a hot shower; an omelet, toast and coffee; sitting among the tall trees with a babbling brook along my side. What more could a man ask for? I have spent the last three days in the Cherokee National Forest, a prelude to the Smoky Mountains. I have another day here until entering the foothills of the Smokies.

Getting here, I conquered my first big town traffic scramble: Chattanooga. Because I like the back roads, I have been able to avoid all big towns since leaving Oregon. Given the mountains and the highway configurations, I couldn’t avoid Chattanooga. Actually, I would have liked to have seen the city. It sits in a beautiful area. One of my nephews told me recently that he thinks it’s a very nice town. Later that day, I made a stop in Cleveland, TN and was impressed with the stately homes and lovely historic downtown. Leaving in another direction, I could see evidence of downturn and poverty. Still, a nice small city.

Then, it was into the Cherokee Mountains. My drives on the small, twisty back roads through this area are really inspiring. I keep wondering how people living there support themselves. I believe they either brought money with them or never had it to begin with. It appears to be a two-class society. I did one overnight 20 miles up in the Mountains. Pictured here is a waterfall I passed going up and down. It was near-primitive camping: the only thing provided was a vault toilet. The lack of water is a hindrance. I had enough to last me a few days, but I had to come back down to make a promised phone call. Once down, I decided to wander the area.

I discovered the small hamlet of Tellico Plains.  I was very attracted to the town. Its main industry is tourism and I’ve said I don’t want to live in another town with that as its major industry. I might need to reconsider that. The name of the town is redundant; Tellico is a Cherokee derivative of the word meaning plains. So, it could be called Plains Plains or Tellico Tellico; sort of like Walla Walla, WA. All but one commercial building was lost in a fire in 1914. Still, today’s buildings are about 100 years old, filled with a mixture of quaint little stores and everyday shops. It’s not yet been gentrified. When I pulled in, I found a parking place right in front of a bookstore! That’s the last thing I expected to find there. It’s small, very full, but organized and kept orderly. I left 2 boxes of books there for their consideration and I need to return on Saturday to see if they want to keep any of them. Awe, shucks; I have to go back there; what a pity. I’ve been carrying these books since the beginning of my travels and have only been able to trade 6 of them. I’m hoping I can leave a bunch with this store.

The two major tourist focii are the Cherohala Skyway, a 27-mile drive over the mountains to North Carolina.Really beautiful. The other is motocycles. The motorcycle drives in the area are considered some of the best in the county. This brings many bikers to the area. I stayed in a cabin in a biker campground one night to get out of the rain. I met three very nice bikers. also, down the road maybe 30 miles is the site of the 1996 Summer Olympics for whitewater rafting. This is a primo spot for such in the country. I can see why. Really beautiful.

I expect to get into the Smokies for the weekend. I’ll let you know.

Sewanee, TN

My recent 5 days on the Cumberland Plateau were mostly spent hanging around The University of the South and its School of Theology. Wow! What a place. I thought I'd died and gone to heaven; I had trouble leaving and wished I could have stayed on.
The U. of the South is Sewanee, TN. It's 13,000 acres incorporate the school and small downtown; the remaining land is left wild for preservation and scientific research. The whole is called The Domain. Nobody owns property within the 13,000 acres. Houses scattered throughout the campus can be owned but the property is on a 99-year lease; same for the businesses downtown.

The University, generally known as Sewanee, rivals any of the Ivy League colleges for beauty and academic achievement (this school has produced the 4th highest number of Rhoades scholars in the country). The University was started just before the Civil War and was almost immediately closed, to open again after the War. The University is modeled after Cambridge and Oxford. This can still be seen by the faculty and the students, who have earned the right, who wear the black academic robes daily.

The University was started by Episcopalians in the Southeast US to bring an Anglican presence to this part of the country. It's core was The School of Theology, the only school which offers advanced degrees. The remainder of the University is undergraduate (1400 students). It is the only Episcopal university in the country.

By shear accident, I nearly bumped into a man wearing a collar at a restaurant in the next town. I knew he had to be an Episcopal priest. Turned out, he was the University's Chaplain and he invited me to his office the next day. When I arrived, he took me to the School of Theology's main Eucharist of the week, followed by lunch with the students and faculty. What a wonderful experience. I got to meet faculty in my areas of interest and the author of the new Newman book. I had some meetings with the School to see about entering their Doctoral program, but I didn't qualify, so I couldn't be considered. Sunday, I attended the service in the University's main chapel. This building is a medieval, French-inspired cathedral. What a trip! A wonderful service, excellently done; formal, for Southern standards. I went away very regretful that I couldn't spend the rest of my live there. [The first building pictured is a student dining hall; the second The School of Theology's Chapel; the third the main Chapel of the University.]